Las Alpujarras
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Las Alpujarras -
If you have read the book ‘Driving Over Lemons’ or any of the other 2 books in the series you may have wondered if such an idyllic place really exists. A place of deep, green valleys, rolling hills and snow capped mountains, where donkeys can still be seen carrying loads up steep slopes and wild goats scramble over the scraggy mountain sides. Well, you’ll be pleased to know that it does exist and it is one of the most relaxing, tranquil and laid back parts of Spain, where hippies mix with smallholders and drink exquisite herbal tea in Muslim run cafés.
Chris Stewart, the famous author and ex-drummer of the band Genesis, chose this isolated valley in order to get away from the rat race and live off the land, something which he has actually managed to do, although it wasn’t at all easy at first, and thrives on now, obviously aided by the phenomenal success of his books, which have recently been translated into Spanish, as well as many other languages.
‘Leader’ reporter Sally Bengtsson, on a trip to Orgiva, the capital of the Alpujarras, last year, decided to see Chris’s valley with her own eyes. She was pleasantly surprised not only by the beauty of the place, but also by the fact that Chris was out tending to his garden and was only too happy to have a little chat. He was friendly and relaxed and seemed very contented, saying that even after nearly 20 years he was still just as much in love with the area as when he first arrived. Walking past his house we were first greeted by his two dogs, very recognisable from the descriptions in the book, and then, to top it off, the famous parrot, who the second book was named after, flew by, as if checking us out, squawking as it passed.
Another famous Brit who made the area his home, but almost 100 years before, was Gerald Brennan, who wrote the fascinating ‘South of Granada,’ which has also been made into a film. He walked over the Andalucian Mountains, after serving in World War 1, looking for a cheap, pleasant place to live and write. He stumbled across the sleepy village of Yegen, where a plaque can be seen on the house he actually lived in all those years ago. The views from the village are wonderful and must have inspired more than a few of his words. He invited over friends from the Bloomsbury group in London; Viginia Wolf and Lytton Strachey were among his visitors, travelling up from the Coast along dirt tracks, on donkeys.
The Alpujarras region of mountain villages lies between the Sierra Nevada and the coast, to the East of Granada. The area is always green due to the constant melting of snow from the mountain tops which trickles down to irrigate the vegetation. The white villages which litter the mountain sides and valleys are mainly made up of box-shaped houses with flat clay roofs. The Poqueira Valley is well known for the three villages there, which are probably the most popular in the region. Pampaneira, Capileira and Bubion offer pleasant bars and restaurants serving typical, uncomplicated food, many offering fantastic views, and the colourful handicrafts made in the area are displayed in the friendly shops all over the villages. Trevelez is another must see village, with the snow capped mountains just behind this, the highest village in the Alpujarras, whilst at the foot of the village the Trevellez River gushes by.
Every other shop sells jamon. It is hung from the roofs, and is the local delicacy. Just about every family in the village is involved in its production one way or another.
If you want to explore the area hiking is a great option. If you prefer to drive be prepared for winding roads, and leave plenty of time for journeys. Rushing just doesn’t work in the sleepy Alpujarras. The locals have time to chat and listen, and welcome visitors to their home.
Article provided by kind permission of The Leader Newspaper
Las Alpujarras Factfile:- Las Alpujarras is a mountainous district located in Southern Spain, the name is thought to be derived from the Arabic al Busherat meaning 'the grassland', it lies within the region of Andalucia and takes in parts of the provinces of Granada and Almeria. Sometimes referred to as 'The Spanish Switzerland', Las Alpujarras is an area of great natural beauty, it is a mostly agricultural area and is particularly abundant in fruit trees (oranges, grapes, lemons, figs, persimmons and almonds). Las Alpujarras has been occupied over the centuries by Iberians, Romans, Visigoths and Moors, and was in fact still occupied by the Moors 150 years after the fall of Granada to the Christian conquistadors.
Do you have a property you want to sell or rent in Las Alpujarras, and surrounding areas? Why not advertise with us? - you found us - thousands of others do each month - click here to find out how:- Advertise With Us
If you have read the book ‘Driving Over Lemons’ or any of the other 2 books in the series you may have wondered if such an idyllic place really exists. A place of deep, green valleys, rolling hills and snow capped mountains, where donkeys can still be seen carrying loads up steep slopes and wild goats scramble over the scraggy mountain sides. Well, you’ll be pleased to know that it does exist and it is one of the most relaxing, tranquil and laid back parts of Spain, where hippies mix with smallholders and drink exquisite herbal tea in Muslim run cafés.
Chris Stewart, the famous author and ex-drummer of the band Genesis, chose this isolated valley in order to get away from the rat race and live off the land, something which he has actually managed to do, although it wasn’t at all easy at first, and thrives on now, obviously aided by the phenomenal success of his books, which have recently been translated into Spanish, as well as many other languages.
‘Leader’ reporter Sally Bengtsson, on a trip to Orgiva, the capital of the Alpujarras, last year, decided to see Chris’s valley with her own eyes. She was pleasantly surprised not only by the beauty of the place, but also by the fact that Chris was out tending to his garden and was only too happy to have a little chat. He was friendly and relaxed and seemed very contented, saying that even after nearly 20 years he was still just as much in love with the area as when he first arrived. Walking past his house we were first greeted by his two dogs, very recognisable from the descriptions in the book, and then, to top it off, the famous parrot, who the second book was named after, flew by, as if checking us out, squawking as it passed.
Another famous Brit who made the area his home, but almost 100 years before, was Gerald Brennan, who wrote the fascinating ‘South of Granada,’ which has also been made into a film. He walked over the Andalucian Mountains, after serving in World War 1, looking for a cheap, pleasant place to live and write. He stumbled across the sleepy village of Yegen, where a plaque can be seen on the house he actually lived in all those years ago. The views from the village are wonderful and must have inspired more than a few of his words. He invited over friends from the Bloomsbury group in London; Viginia Wolf and Lytton Strachey were among his visitors, travelling up from the Coast along dirt tracks, on donkeys.
The Alpujarras region of mountain villages lies between the Sierra Nevada and the coast, to the East of Granada. The area is always green due to the constant melting of snow from the mountain tops which trickles down to irrigate the vegetation. The white villages which litter the mountain sides and valleys are mainly made up of box-shaped houses with flat clay roofs. The Poqueira Valley is well known for the three villages there, which are probably the most popular in the region. Pampaneira, Capileira and Bubion offer pleasant bars and restaurants serving typical, uncomplicated food, many offering fantastic views, and the colourful handicrafts made in the area are displayed in the friendly shops all over the villages. Trevelez is another must see village, with the snow capped mountains just behind this, the highest village in the Alpujarras, whilst at the foot of the village the Trevellez River gushes by.
Every other shop sells jamon. It is hung from the roofs, and is the local delicacy. Just about every family in the village is involved in its production one way or another.
If you want to explore the area hiking is a great option. If you prefer to drive be prepared for winding roads, and leave plenty of time for journeys. Rushing just doesn’t work in the sleepy Alpujarras. The locals have time to chat and listen, and welcome visitors to their home.
Article provided by kind permission of The Leader Newspaper
Las Alpujarras Factfile:- Las Alpujarras is a mountainous district located in Southern Spain, the name is thought to be derived from the Arabic al Busherat meaning 'the grassland', it lies within the region of Andalucia and takes in parts of the provinces of Granada and Almeria. Sometimes referred to as 'The Spanish Switzerland', Las Alpujarras is an area of great natural beauty, it is a mostly agricultural area and is particularly abundant in fruit trees (oranges, grapes, lemons, figs, persimmons and almonds). Las Alpujarras has been occupied over the centuries by Iberians, Romans, Visigoths and Moors, and was in fact still occupied by the Moors 150 years after the fall of Granada to the Christian conquistadors.
Do you have a property you want to sell or rent in Las Alpujarras, and surrounding areas? Why not advertise with us? - you found us - thousands of others do each month - click here to find out how:- Advertise With Us
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