Last week we arrived at the channel crossing points for you to choose which route you prefer. My husband and I have crossed the channel from the U.K. to France on many occasions since 1979 and have taken most of the crossings at one point or another, and have travelled with most ferry companies. Since 1987, the year we purchased our first property here on the Costa Blanca, and our eldest daughter took a school exchange staying with a family in Salon de Provence, we have driven through France even more regularly.
This week I am beginning our journey from Rouen, on the river Seine, in the Haute Normandie region. Rouen, two hours drive from Calais, is a city of art and history and if you are an opera lover then a visit to the Opera House is a must. The city overflows with monuments, medieval streets and churches, and the cathedral was a favourite of the artist Monet.
After her 10 day siege in Orleans, which she liberated from the British, it was here in the city of Rouen at the Place de Vieux Marché, that Joan of Arc was burned at the stake on 30 May 1431. It took until the early 1900’s before she was officially deemed a Saint. After leaving Rouen we will visit the town of Le Mans, not only well known for the 24 hour endurance car race, but also for the highly picturesque old town of Le Mans, le Vieux Mans, which has 15th and 16th Century architecture, Renaissance mansions and wonderful cobbled streets which can only be explored on foot and is the best preserved medieval town centre in France.
Next on our journey south is the lovely Loire Valley called the ‘Garden of France’ that houses more than ten thousand Renaissance chateaux, dotted in the rolling green hills of this enchanted land. Known internationally for its Chateaux, the Loire Valley is a must, with its rich fauna and flora, wooden side houses, and the vast beautiful places to walk which make this area a pleasure to visit. The massive Loire River, over 1,000 kms long, runs through the centre of Tours. This is the longest free running river in France and isn’t hindered by a lock of any description. The Rivers ‘Loire’ and it’s tributary the ‘Cher’ both run through the centre of this town and make the most wonderful ‘postcard picture’ you could imagine.
My youngest daughter, Vikki lived in Tours during 1997 and 1999 and during their stays, and with no family at the time, she and Eric decided as the Loire is the region of the Chateaux, then they would try to visit as many as possible. They visited at least two every weekend and sometimes more. I often accompanied them and the one castle that is foremost in my mind is the fairy tale ‘Chateau d’Ussé’, about 22 kilometres from the city of Tours.
The’ Chateau d’Ussé’ was the castle which inspired Charles Perrault to write ‘Sleeping Beauty’. No it wasn’t written by ‘Walt Disney’, but the castle was used as the role model for the Cinderella castle in Disney World as well as in both his Cinderella and Sleeping Beauty films.
This enchanting castle known both as the ‘castle of dreams’ and ‘La belle aux bois dormant’ is set deep within the deep green trees of the Forest of Chinon, in the Indre valley and is surrounded by huge sunflowers, during the summer.
The thing that makes it even more remarkable is that it is still a real family home.
Built originally for the Buiel family in the second half of the 15th century, it changed hands many times until 1885, when the Count de Blacas bought it. His descendants still live and make a home there today. When you see ‘Sleeping Beauty’ as well as the other figures from Perraults fairytale, and walk along the authentic covered rampart you feel as though you have stepped back in time. The gardens, which were designed by Le Notre, dominate the Indre Valley and will amaze you and you will be charmed by the view. The entrance to the castles isn’t cheap, but there are special reductions for children and the elderly.
Next on our trip back through France is Poitiers, which I covered in depth during the ‘French Exchange’ article in September, so I am taking us on to Cognac. Cognac is the ‘crème de la crème’ of the brandy world and some 20 kilometres from Bordeaux. It is a medieval town which boasts narrow cobbled streets, half timbered buildings, and a castle. Yes, another castle! This time it is the castle where King Francois was born in 1494.
Cognac brandy has been created in the town since the 17th century and the air is permeated by the heavy scent of spirits evaporating from oak casks. The world famous, Hennesy, Otard, Rémy-Martin, Courvoisier and Renault-Bisquit are all still located here, and a guided tour will take you through the double-distilling process that goes on in the copper stills.
Leaving Cognac behind we drive over the border into the Dordogne and across the River Gironde, into Bordeaux, this takes its regional name from the river. With a wonderful glass of Bordeaux wine in one hand, some Brie and a baguette in the other, I think this is a good place to rest until my next part in a week’s time.
Next week we will continue down the west coast of France, over the Spanish border, where our journey will have come to an end.......... next article: Travelling Around France
Article provided by kind permission of The Leader Newspaper (Written by Jill Attfield)